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Food Culture in Ulaanbaatar

Ulaanbaatar Food Culture

Traditional dishes, dining customs, and culinary experiences

Culinary Culture

Ulaanbaatar's food culture is a fascinating blend of nomadic traditions and modern urban influences, where the harsh continental climate and pastoral heritage have shaped a cuisine centered on meat and dairy. The capital city serves as Mongolia's culinary crossroads, where traditional dishes like buuz (steamed dumplings) and khorkhog (hot stone-cooked meat) coexist with international restaurants and contemporary fusion concepts. The Mongolian diet has historically been dictated by necessity—nomadic herders required calorie-dense, portable foods that could withstand extreme temperatures, resulting in a meat-heavy cuisine featuring mutton, beef, goat, and horse. Dining in Ulaanbaatar offers a unique window into a culture where hospitality is paramount and meals are communal affairs. The city's restaurant scene has evolved dramatically since the 1990s, with Soviet-era canteens giving way to modern eateries, Korean barbecue joints, and upscale establishments showcasing refined Mongolian cuisine. Despite this modernization, traditional guanz (small local restaurants) remain the heart of everyday dining, serving hearty portions at affordable prices. The influence of Mongolia's neighbors—particularly Russia and China—is evident in the prevalence of salads, dumplings, and noodle dishes. What makes dining in Ulaanbaatar particularly distinctive is the extreme seasonality and the sacred relationship Mongolians have with their livestock. The 'Five Snouts' (horse, cattle, camel, sheep, and goat) provide not just meat but also dairy products that form the foundation of Mongolian cuisine. Winter temperatures dropping to -40°C mean that hot, filling meals are essential, while summer brings airag (fermented mare's milk) season and outdoor barbecues. Visitors will find that Mongolian hospitality extends to the dining table, where refusing food can be considered impolite, and sharing meals strengthens social bonds. The capital's food scene also reflects Mongolia's rapid development, with third-wave coffee shops, craft beer bars, and vegetarian restaurants emerging to serve a young, increasingly cosmopolitan population. Yet even in the most modern establishments, you'll find echoes of nomadic traditions—whether in the omnipresent milk tea, the preference for boiled rather than fried foods, or the reverence for meat as the centerpiece of any proper meal.

Ulaanbaatar's culinary identity is rooted in nomadic pastoral traditions, where meat and dairy dominate a cuisine shaped by extreme climate and survival necessity. The city's food culture balances ancient techniques like stone-cooking and fermentation with Soviet influences and modern international trends, creating a unique dining landscape that honors tradition while embracing change. Hospitality, communal eating, and the sacred relationship between Mongolians and their livestock remain central to every meal.

Traditional Dishes

Must-try local specialties that define Ulaanbaatar's culinary heritage

Buuz (Бууз)

Main Must Try

Steamed dumplings filled with minced mutton or beef, onions, and garlic, traditionally eaten during Tsagaan Sar (Lunar New Year). These plump, juicy dumplings are pinched into a distinctive shape with an opening at the top, and the broth inside is considered the best part. They're typically eaten by hand, with the first bite releasing aromatic steam.

Introduced through Chinese culinary influence centuries ago, buuz became thoroughly Mongolianized and are now the quintessential festive food. Families make thousands during Tsagaan Sar, with the number and quality of buuz reflecting the host's hospitality and status.

Traditional guanz (local restaurants), canteens, and virtually every restaurant during Tsagaan Sar (late January to March) Budget

Khorkhog (Хорхог)

Main Must Try

An ancient nomadic dish where mutton is cooked with heated river stones in a sealed metal container, along with potatoes, carrots, and onions. The stones impart a unique flavor while the meat steams and roasts simultaneously, becoming incredibly tender. Diners traditionally pass the hot stones hand-to-hand after cooking, believing they have medicinal properties.

Dating back centuries, khorkhog represents the ingenuity of nomadic cooking without conventional ovens or pots. The hot stone method allowed herders to cook meat thoroughly while moving camps, and the communal nature of the dish reinforced social bonds.

Traditional Mongolian restaurants, countryside ger camps, and special order at some urban establishments (requires advance notice) Moderate

Tsuivan (Цуйван)

Main Must Try

Hand-pulled noodles stir-fried with mutton or beef and vegetables, creating a hearty one-dish meal. The noodles are steamed rather than boiled, giving them a distinctive chewy texture that absorbs the meat juices and vegetable flavors. This is comfort food at its finest, especially popular during cold winter months.

Reflecting both Mongolian and Chinese culinary traditions, tsuivan became a staple because it combined precious flour with meat and vegetables efficiently. The dish represents the sedentary side of Mongolian cuisine that developed in permanent settlements.

Guanz, family restaurants, canteens, and most traditional Mongolian eateries Budget

Boodog (Боодог)

Main

An entire goat or marmot cooked from the inside out using hot stones placed within the carcass, then blowtorched on the outside. This creates incredibly tender, smoky meat with crispy skin. The dramatic preparation and presentation make it a centerpiece for special gatherings.

An ancient hunting and celebration dish, boodog showcases the Mongolian principle of using every part of the animal. Traditionally prepared during autumn hunting season, it's now a special-occasion dish that demonstrates culinary skill and hospitality.

Specialty traditional restaurants, countryside ger camps (must be ordered in advance, usually for groups) Upscale

Khuushuur (Хуушуур)

Snack Must Try

Deep-fried flat pockets of dough filled with minced meat and onions, similar to empanadas but distinctly Mongolian. Crispy on the outside and juicy inside, these are the ultimate street food and celebration snack. They're especially popular during Naadam Festival in July.

While similar to buuz in filling, khuushuur's fried preparation made it ideal for outdoor festivals and celebrations where steaming wasn't practical. The dish became synonymous with Naadam, Mongolia's biggest sporting festival.

Street vendors during festivals, guanz, canteens, and food stalls near markets Budget

Guriltai Shul (Гурилтай шөл)

Soup Must Try

A hearty mutton soup with hand-rolled noodles and vegetables, representing Mongolian comfort food at its simplest. The broth is rich with meat fat, and the thick noodles provide substance. Often served with potatoes and carrots, it's a complete meal in a bowl.

This soup exemplifies the Mongolian approach to maximizing scarce resources—flour, meat, and vegetables combined into a filling, warming dish that sustained families through harsh winters.

Every guanz, canteen, and traditional restaurant; often served as a starter or light meal Budget

Borts (Борц)

Snack

Air-dried meat strips that can last for years without refrigeration, traditionally made from beef or mutton. Chewy and intensely flavored, borts can be eaten as a snack or rehydrated in soups. This ancient preservation method allowed nomads to store meat through seasons.

Essential to nomadic survival, borts represents Mongolian ingenuity in food preservation. Meat dried during autumn slaughter season provided protein through winter when livestock weren't killed, ensuring year-round sustenance.

Local markets, specialty food shops, and some traditional restaurants as an appetizer Moderate

Aaruul (Ааруул)

Snack Must Try Veg

Dried curd snacks made from yogurt or milk, ranging from soft and tangy to rock-hard and sweet. These come in various shapes and flavors, representing Mongolia's sophisticated dairy culture. They're nutritious, portable, and deeply traditional.

Dairy preservation was crucial for nomads who had abundant milk in summer but needed to store nutrients for winter. Aaruul allowed families to transform perishable milk into shelf-stable snacks that lasted months.

Markets, supermarkets, street vendors, and as complimentary snacks with tea in restaurants Budget

Suutei Tsai (Сүүтэй цай)

Breakfast Must Try Veg

Salty milk tea made with water, milk, tea leaves, salt, and sometimes butter or fat, served throughout the day but especially at breakfast. This warming beverage is often accompanied by bread or pastries and represents Mongolian hospitality—refusing a cup can be seen as rude.

The addition of salt and fat to tea reflects nomadic nutritional needs, providing calories and warmth in extreme cold. Offering milk tea is the first gesture of hospitality in any Mongolian home.

Every restaurant, café, home, and ger; it's ubiquitous in Mongolian culture Budget

Bansh (Банш)

Soup

Small boiled dumplings similar to buuz but smaller and typically served in soup rather than steamed. The tiny dumplings float in a clear meat broth with vegetables, creating a lighter but still satisfying meal. They're considered easier to digest than their steamed cousins.

Bansh represents the practical adaptation of dumpling-making for everyday meals rather than celebrations, requiring less meat per dumpling and cooking faster than buuz.

Guanz, canteens, and traditional restaurants as a soup course or light meal Budget

Airag (Айраг)

Snack Must Try Veg

Fermented mare's milk with a slightly alcoholic, fizzy, and sour taste that's an acquired flavor for most foreigners. Rich in vitamins and probiotics, it's considered both beverage and food. The fermentation process takes place in a leather bag that's stirred thousands of times.

Dating back to Chinggis Khan's era, airag sustained Mongolian warriors and nomads with its nutritional density and hydrating properties. It remains central to summer celebrations and is believed to have medicinal qualities.

Available seasonally (June-September) at markets, traditional restaurants, and countryside ger camps Budget

Boortsog (Боорцог)

Dessert Veg

Deep-fried dough cookies with a dense, slightly sweet texture, shaped into various patterns from simple rectangles to intricate braids. These golden-brown treats are crunchy outside and tender inside, often served with tea. They're a staple at celebrations and everyday snacking.

Boortsog's long shelf life made it ideal for nomadic life, while its special shapes for celebrations demonstrated the host's care and skill. Different regions have distinct shaping traditions passed through generations.

Bakeries, markets, supermarkets, and served complimentary with tea at restaurants and homes Budget

Taste Ulaanbaatar's Best Flavors

A food tour is the fastest way to find good spots. Sample traditional dishes and learn from guides who know the neighborhood.

Browse Food Tours

Dining Etiquette

Mongolian dining etiquette reflects centuries of nomadic hospitality traditions where refusing food or drink can be considered disrespectful. Meals are communal affairs with specific customs around receiving food, handling utensils, and showing respect to hosts and elders. Understanding these customs will enhance your dining experience and show cultural sensitivity.

Receiving Food and Drink

When offered food or drink, especially milk tea or airag, it's customary to receive it with your right hand or both hands as a sign of respect. Even if you don't want to consume it, accept it and at least touch it to your lips before setting it down. The snuff bottle exchange ritual may occur in traditional settings, where bottles are exchanged with the right hand while the left hand supports the right elbow.

Do

  • Accept offered food and drink with your right hand or both hands
  • At least taste what's offered before declining more
  • Hold your cup or bowl with both hands when receiving refills
  • Wait for elders or honored guests to begin eating first

Don't

  • Don't refuse milk tea outright—it's considered the height of hospitality
  • Don't use your left hand alone to receive food or drink
  • Don't point your feet toward the hearth, altar, or elders while seated
  • Don't stick chopsticks or utensils vertically into rice or food

Eating Meat and Bones

Meat dishes, especially traditional ones like khorkhog or boodog, come with specific customs. Certain bones or cuts may be offered to honored guests, and the way you handle bones matters. It's acceptable and often expected to eat with your hands for traditional dishes, and leaving a clean bone is seen as appreciating the food.

Do

  • Use your hands for buuz, khorkhog, and other traditional meat dishes
  • Accept the sheep's tailbone (uuts) if offered—it's a sign of honor
  • Place bones neatly on a designated plate or area
  • Compliment the host on the meal's quality

Don't

  • Don't break bones unnecessarily or leave meat on bones
  • Don't throw bones carelessly or step over them
  • Don't refuse meat if you're not vegetarian—it may offend
  • Don't waste food, especially meat

Toasting and Drinking

Vodka toasts are common at celebrations and dinners. When toasting, it's customary to dip your ring finger in the vodka and flick it three times (to the sky, earth, and ancestors) before drinking. You don't have to finish your glass if you can't handle alcohol, but participating in the ritual shows respect.

Do

  • Participate in toasts even if you only take a small sip
  • Perform the three-flick ritual if in traditional company
  • Return toasts and acknowledge the host
  • Keep your glass filled to avoid constant refills

Don't

  • Don't refuse to toast entirely without explanation
  • Don't pour your own drink before others are served
  • Don't leave your glass empty—it signals you want more
  • Don't get visibly drunk, which is seen as disrespectful

Restaurant Behavior

In urban restaurants, behavior is more relaxed than in traditional settings, but some customs persist. Service may be slower than Western standards, and waitstaff may not check on you frequently. It's normal to call servers over when needed rather than waiting for them to approach.

Do

  • Signal servers by making eye contact or raising your hand slightly
  • Share dishes family-style when dining in groups
  • Be patient with service—rushing is not part of the culture
  • Ask for the bill when ready rather than waiting for it

Don't

  • Don't snap fingers or whistle to get attention
  • Don't expect servers to bring the bill without asking
  • Don't complain loudly about food or service
  • Don't leave immediately after paying—lingering is acceptable

Breakfast

Breakfast (өглөөний хоол) is typically eaten between 8:00-10:00 AM and consists of milk tea, bread, pastries, boortsog, aaruul, and sometimes leftovers from dinner. Many locals grab quick breakfast at canteens or bakeries before work, while traditional households prepare more elaborate spreads with dairy products.

Lunch

Lunch (өдрийн хоол) runs from 12:00-2:00 PM and is traditionally the main meal of the day, though this is changing with modern work schedules. Office workers often eat at canteens or guanz near their workplace, ordering hearty dishes like tsuivan or guriltai shul. Lunch breaks can be brief, typically 30-60 minutes.

Dinner

Dinner (оройн хоол) is served between 6:00-9:00 PM and has become the primary family meal in urban settings. Restaurants get busy after 7:00 PM, especially on weekends. Traditional dinners are substantial, featuring meat dishes, and may extend late into the evening during celebrations or when hosting guests.

Tipping Guide

Restaurants: Tipping is not traditionally expected in Mongolia but is becoming more common in Ulaanbaatar's upscale restaurants. 5-10% is appreciated for good service in mid-range to high-end establishments, but not obligatory. Check if service charge is included.

Cafes: Tipping in cafes is rare and not expected. Rounding up the bill or leaving small change (500-1,000 MNT) is sufficient if you received exceptional service.

Bars: Tipping bartenders is uncommon in local bars but appreciated in upscale cocktail bars and hotel bars. Leaving 5-10% or rounding up is generous and noticed.

In budget guanz and canteens, tipping is virtually unknown and may confuse staff. When in doubt, observe what locals do. Tipping delivery drivers 1,000-2,000 MNT is becoming more standard with app-based services.

Street Food

Ulaanbaatar's street food scene is modest compared to Southeast Asian cities, largely due to the extreme winter climate that makes outdoor vending impractical for much of the year. However, during warmer months (May-September), you'll find vendors selling khuushuur, grilled meats, and snacks near markets, parks, and during festivals. The city's street food culture centers more around small guanz (hole-in-the-wall restaurants) and canteens that serve quick, affordable meals rather than mobile carts. These establishments function as Mongolia's version of street food—fast, cheap, and authentic. The real street food action happens during Naadam Festival in July and at weekend markets like Narantuul (Black Market) and around the Central Tower area. Here you'll find vendors grilling mutton skewers, frying khuushuur, and selling traditional snacks like boortsog and aaruul. Food stalls also appear near major intersections and bus stops during evening rush hours, offering quick bites for commuters. Winter street food is limited to heated kiosks selling buuz, piroshki (Russian influence), and hot tea.

Khuushuur

Crispy fried meat pockets that are the quintessential Mongolian street snack, especially during Naadam Festival. Golden and grease-soaked, they're best eaten hot with the juices dripping down your fingers.

Festival grounds during Naadam, vendors near Narantuul Market, small guanz throughout the city, food stalls in Zaisan and near Central Tower

1,500-2,500 MNT per piece

Shashlik (Шашлык)

Russian-influenced grilled meat skewers, typically mutton or beef, seasoned simply with salt and pepper. Smoky and charred, they're served on the skewer with raw onions and sometimes bread.

Summer evening vendors near State Department Store, parks during weekends, Narantuul Market area, outdoor beer gardens

2,000-4,000 MNT per skewer

Buuz from kiosks

Quick-service steamed dumplings sold by the piece from small kiosks and windows. Not quite restaurant quality but hot, filling, and perfect for a quick meal on cold days.

Heated kiosks near bus stops, Peace Avenue, around apartment complexes, near universities

500-800 MNT per piece (usually sold in sets of 3-5)

Piroshki (Пирожки)

Russian-style baked or fried buns filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage, or sweet fillings. A Soviet legacy that remains popular as a quick, portable snack.

Bakeries, kiosks, vendors near markets and metro stations, bus terminals

800-1,500 MNT per piece

Boiled Corn

Simple boiled corn on the cob sold from carts during summer months. Sweet and filling, often enjoyed while strolling through parks or shopping areas.

Summer vendors in Sukhbaatar Square, near Zaisan Memorial, around shopping districts

1,000-1,500 MNT per cob

Aaruul and Boortsog

Traditional dried curd snacks and fried cookies sold by vendors, especially women selling homemade versions from baskets. Authentic taste of nomadic food culture.

Narantuul Market, Merkuri Market, vendors outside department stores, bus stations

500-2,000 MNT per small bag

Best Areas for Street Food

Narantuul Market (Black Market)

Known for: The city's largest market with numerous food stalls selling khuushuur, buuz, traditional snacks, and ingredients. The surrounding streets have many budget guanz serving authentic home-style cooking.

Best time: Weekday mornings (9 AM-12 PM) for freshest offerings and fewer crowds; avoid Mondays when it's closed

Peace Avenue (Энхтайвны өргөн чөлөө)

Known for: The main thoroughfare with numerous kiosks, small eateries, and evening vendors selling quick snacks. High concentration of budget dining options for office workers.

Best time: Lunch hours (12-2 PM) and evening rush hour (6-8 PM) when vendors are most active

Around State Department Store

Known for: Central shopping area with street vendors, kiosks, and small guanz. Good for observing urban food culture and grabbing quick bites while exploring downtown.

Best time: Afternoons and early evenings, especially weekends when shopping activity peaks

National Sports Stadium during Naadam

Known for: The ultimate Mongolian street food experience during the July 11-13 Naadam Festival, with dozens of vendors selling khuushuur, grilled meats, and traditional foods.

Best time: During Naadam Festival (July 11-13), arrive early afternoon for best selection

Zaisan Memorial area

Known for: Summer evening vendors selling grilled corn, shashlik, and snacks to locals enjoying the views and cool evening air. More relaxed atmosphere than downtown.

Best time: Summer evenings (6-9 PM) when locals gather for sunset views

Dining by Budget

Dining in Ulaanbaatar is remarkably affordable compared to most capital cities, with excellent value across all price ranges. The city's budget dining scene offers authentic local food at prices that make eating out daily feasible, while mid-range restaurants provide comfort and variety without breaking the bank. Upscale dining remains reasonable by international standards, making splurge meals accessible for special occasions.

Budget-Friendly

15,000-25,000 MNT ($4-7 USD) per day for three meals

Typical meal: 3,000-8,000 MNT ($1-2.50 USD) per meal at guanz and canteens

  • Local guanz serving tsuivan, guriltai shul, and buuz
  • Canteens (хоолны газар) near markets and business districts
  • Kiosks selling buuz, piroshki, and quick meals
  • Supermarket prepared foods and bakery items
  • Self-catering from Narantuul or Merkuri markets
Tips:
  • Eat your main meal at lunch when many restaurants offer cheaper set menus
  • Guanz near Narantuul Market offer the most authentic and affordable meals
  • Order tsuivan or guriltai shul—they're filling and typically 4,000-6,000 MNT
  • Buy snacks like boortsog and aaruul from markets rather than shops for better prices
  • Milk tea is usually free or very cheap and helps stretch your budget
  • Look for 'өдрийн цэс' (daily menu) signs for best lunch deals

Mid-Range

40,000-70,000 MNT ($12-20 USD) per day

Typical meal: 10,000-25,000 MNT ($3-7 USD) per meal

  • Modern Mongolian restaurants with English menus and comfortable seating
  • Korean barbecue restaurants (very popular in Ulaanbaatar)
  • International cuisine including Japanese, Chinese, and European
  • Casual dining chains and café-restaurants
  • Hotel restaurants offering buffets and set menus
At this price point, expect clean, comfortable environments with attentive service, English-speaking staff, and diverse menus. You'll enjoy well-prepared traditional dishes alongside international options, with better cuts of meat and more refined presentations. Many restaurants include salad bars, side dishes, and complimentary tea. Portions remain generous, and the ambiance is suitable for both casual dining and business meals.

Splurge

30,000-80,000 MNT ($9-23 USD) per person for upscale dining
  • Fine dining restaurants in luxury hotels like Shangri-La and Blue Sky Hotel
  • Modern Mongolian fusion restaurants showcasing refined traditional cuisine
  • High-end steakhouses featuring premium Mongolian beef
  • Upscale international restaurants with imported ingredients
  • Special traditional experiences like private khorkhog dinners
Worth it for: Splurging is worthwhile for experiencing elevated Mongolian cuisine that reinterprets traditional dishes with modern techniques, celebrating special occasions with khorkhog or boodog (which require advance ordering and minimum groups), or enjoying the ambiance and service of hotel restaurants. The price difference between mid-range and upscale is modest enough that occasional splurges won't devastate your budget, and you'll experience how contemporary Mongolian chefs are innovating with their culinary heritage.

Dietary Considerations

Ulaanbaatar's dining scene is heavily meat-centric, which can pose challenges for vegetarians, vegans, and those with specific dietary restrictions. However, the city's growing cosmopolitan population has sparked an increase in accommodating restaurants, particularly in areas frequented by expats and young Mongolians. Communication about dietary needs requires patience and sometimes creativity, as traditional Mongolian cuisine doesn't have strong vegetarian traditions.

V Vegetarian & Vegan

Limited but improving. Traditional Mongolian cuisine offers few vegetarian options beyond dairy-based dishes and some soups. However, Ulaanbaatar has several dedicated vegetarian/vegan restaurants and cafes, plus Indian, Korean, and international restaurants with plant-based options. Most modern restaurants can prepare vegetable-only dishes upon request, though cross-contamination with meat broths is common.

Local options: Aaruul and other dried dairy products (vegetarian but not vegan), Boortsog (fried cookies, usually vegetarian), Vegetable tsuivan (request without meat—гахгүй), Potato dishes and салат (salads, though often with mayonnaise), Банштай хүнсний ногоотой шөл (vegetable soup with small dumplings, request meatless), Dairy products like yogurt, cream, and various cheeses

  • Learn the phrase 'Би мах иддэггүй' (Bi makh iddegui) meaning 'I don't eat meat'
  • Specify 'гахгүй' (gakhgui - without meat) when ordering
  • Be aware that 'vegetarian' soups often use meat broth—ask for 'ногоон шөл' (vegetable soup)
  • Indian restaurants offer the most reliable vegetarian options
  • Modern cafes often have vegetarian sandwiches, salads, and pasta
  • Self-catering from markets provides good vegetable, bread, and dairy options
  • International supermarkets like Nomin and Orgil have imported vegetarian products

! Food Allergies

Common allergens: Mutton and beef (in virtually everything, including broths), Dairy products (milk, butter, cream in many dishes and tea), Wheat flour (in noodles, dumplings, bread), Onions and garlic (used liberally in most savory dishes), Eggs (in some noodle dishes and baked goods)

Allergy awareness is relatively low in traditional restaurants, so communication is crucial. Write down your allergen in both English and Mongolian, or show pictures. Staff at upscale and international restaurants generally understand allergies better. Be persistent and specific, as 'a little bit' of an ingredient might still be added if you're not clear.

Useful phrase: Би... харшилтай (Bi... kharsiltai) - I'm allergic to... / Add specific allergen: мах (makh - meat), сүү (suu - milk), өндөг (ondög - eggs), будаа (budaa - wheat)

H Halal & Kosher

Limited. Mongolia has a small Muslim population, and halal options are scarce. A few restaurants, particularly Turkish and Middle Eastern establishments, serve halal meat. Kosher food is virtually non-existent. The Mongolian method of slaughtering animals doesn't follow halal or kosher practices.

Some Turkish restaurants and Middle Eastern eateries in the city center advertise halal options. The Islamic Cultural Center may provide information on halal dining. Indian and vegetarian restaurants offer safe alternatives for those avoiding non-halal meat. Self-catering and fish/vegetable-based meals are the most reliable options.

GF Gluten-Free

Challenging but manageable. Wheat noodles and dumplings dominate Mongolian cuisine, but naturally gluten-free options exist. Awareness of celiac disease is low, so cross-contamination is a concern. Modern cafes and international restaurants are more accommodating.

Naturally gluten-free: Khorkhog (meat cooked with stones, vegetables—ensure no flour-based additions), Plain grilled or boiled meats, Aaruul and other dried dairy products, Yogurt and fresh dairy (check for additives), Potato dishes, Rice-based dishes (more common at Korean and Asian restaurants), Salads (without croutons, check dressings)

Food Markets

Experience local food culture at markets and food halls

General market with extensive food section

Narantuul Market (Нарантуул зах - Black Market)

Ulaanbaatar's largest and most chaotic market, offering everything from traditional foods to imported goods. The food section features fresh and dried meats, dairy products, vegetables, spices, and traditional snacks. It's an authentic slice of local life where vendors sell homemade aaruul, boortsog, and borts alongside imported goods.

Best for: Traditional Mongolian ingredients, dried meats, dairy products, bulk spices, fresh produce, experiencing authentic market culture, and budget food shopping. Surrounding guanz offer some of the city's cheapest and most authentic meals.

Tuesday-Sunday, 9 AM-6 PM (closed Mondays); arrive before noon for best selection and fewer crowds

Indoor food market

Merkuri Market (Меркури зах)

A cleaner, more organized alternative to Narantuul with dedicated food halls and stalls. Better for those intimidated by Narantuul's chaos, with clear sections for meat, produce, dairy, and prepared foods. More expensive but easier to navigate.

Best for: Fresh produce, imported foods, dairy products, baked goods, and a more comfortable shopping experience. Good selection of Russian and European imports.

Daily, 9 AM-8 PM; weekday mornings are quietest

Seasonal farmers market

Organic and Farmers Markets

Small-scale organic markets appear during summer months, featuring locally grown vegetables, honey, dairy products from countryside producers, and artisanal foods. These markets cater to health-conscious urban Mongolians and expats seeking higher-quality produce.

Best for: Organic vegetables, artisanal dairy products, honey, homemade preserves, and supporting local farmers. Quality is higher than regular markets but prices reflect this.

Seasonal (June-September), typically weekend mornings; check social media for locations as they rotate

Supermarket and food court

State Department Store Food Hall

The iconic department store's basement houses a supermarket and food court with various vendors selling prepared foods, snacks, and ingredients. More tourist-friendly than traditional markets with fixed prices and cleaner conditions.

Best for: Quick meals, snacks, imported goods, souvenirs like packaged aaruul and boortsog, and convenient central location. Food court offers various cuisines at moderate prices.

Daily, 10 AM-10 PM; busiest on weekends

Modern supermarket chain

Nomin and Orgil Supermarkets

Western-style supermarkets with multiple locations throughout the city, offering the widest selection of imported goods, packaged foods, fresh produce, and international ingredients. Clean, organized, and with fixed prices.

Best for: Imported products, vegetarian/vegan items, gluten-free options, familiar Western brands, fresh baked goods, and comfortable shopping. Higher prices than markets but reliable quality.

Daily, 8 AM-11 PM; multiple locations including Peace Avenue and in major shopping centers

Seasonal festive market

Tsagaan Sar Pre-Holiday Markets

Special markets and expanded stalls appear before Tsagaan Sar (Lunar New Year, late January-March) selling traditional holiday foods, decorations, and gifts. The atmosphere is festive with families bulk-buying ingredients for celebration meals.

Best for: Experiencing Mongolian holiday culture, buying traditional sweets and snacks, observing preparation for the country's biggest celebration, and sampling seasonal specialties.

Two weeks before Tsagaan Sar (dates vary by lunar calendar, usually late January to early March); all-day but mornings are busiest

Seasonal Eating

Ulaanbaatar's extreme continental climate creates one of the world's most pronounced seasonal eating patterns, with temperatures ranging from -40°C in winter to +35°C in summer. Traditional Mongolian food culture revolves around autumn slaughter season when livestock are fattest, followed by meat preservation for winter. Summer brings fresh dairy products and the brief growing season for vegetables, while winter demands calorie-dense, warming foods. Modern Ulaanbaatar has year-round access to imported produce, but seasonal specialties still define the culinary calendar.

Spring (March-May)

  • Tsagaan Sar celebrations (late January-March) featuring buuz, mutton, and traditional dairy products
  • End of winter meat supplies and anticipation of fresh dairy season
  • Gradual appearance of greenhouse vegetables in markets
  • Transition from heavy winter foods to lighter preparations
Try: Tsagaan Sar feast foods including buuz, boiled mutton, and traditional sweets, Ul boov (traditional layered cake served during Tsagaan Sar), Early spring dairy products as livestock begin producing milk again

Summer (June-August)

  • Airag (fermented mare's milk) season in full swing
  • Fresh dairy products at their peak—yogurt, cream, cheese
  • Naadam Festival (July 11-13) with khuushuur and celebration foods
  • Local vegetables and berries briefly available
  • Outdoor barbecues and picnics become popular
  • Coldest beer and lightest meals preferred due to heat
Try: Fresh airag from countryside sources or specialized vendors, Khuushuur during Naadam Festival, Grilled meats and outdoor khorkhog gatherings, Fresh salads with locally grown vegetables, Homemade ice cream and cold dairy desserts, Sea buckthorn juice and berry preserves

Autumn (September-November)

  • Slaughter season when livestock are fattest before winter
  • Fresh meat at its best quality and most affordable prices
  • Preparation of borts (dried meat) and preserved foods for winter
  • Last fresh vegetables before winter sets in
  • Mushroom foraging in countryside areas
  • Transition to heartier, warming dishes
Try: Freshly slaughtered mutton and beef dishes, Khorkhog and boodog celebrations with autumn meat, Wild mushroom dishes from countryside foraging, Preserved vegetables and pickles being prepared, Hearty stews and soups as temperatures drop

Winter (December-February)

  • Preserved and frozen meats dominate cuisine
  • Hottest, heartiest dishes to combat extreme cold
  • Buuz and steamed dumplings at their most popular
  • Reliance on root vegetables and preserved foods
  • Indoor dining and hot pot meals preferred
  • Vodka consumption increases for 'warmth'
Try: Buuz and bansh in hot broth, Guriltai shul and warming soups, Boodog and khorkhog for special winter gatherings, Hot pot (influenced by Chinese cuisine), Tsuivan with extra fat for calories, Suutei tsai (milk tea) consumed constantly for warmth

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